My regular gunsmith friend closed his shop while I was deployed and is currently in Afghanistan on contract maintenance work for the next year. I've got a Dremel and I'm not afraid to use it (famous last words.)
#REPLACEMENT BARREL CHILEAN MAUSER SERIES#
IF I Cut the barrel (its worthless due to rust and pitting),How deep? And are the relief cuts parallel to the barrel's bore or do I cut the relief cut around the entire circumference? Brownells' "Gunsmith's Kinks" book series talks about the cut but don't provide a picture. Heat should be applied to the barrel since it's crap and to prevent any issues with heat treating of the Mauser Receiver, correct?ģ. I've read before that heat applied to the barrel may help loosen things up (expansion/contraction)or that relief cuts on the barrel itself might help.ġ -IS the powdered resin worth the money or is there something else that can be used to keep the barrel from turning within the barrel blocks?Ģ. I've never used the Rosin (at $14 for 6oz) that MidwayUSA hypes in their catalog. Instead the rifle turns within my oak blocks and I've got the vise cranked down and then tapped tight. I've got a M24/47 Yugo with a crap barrel that has not budged with several good whacks. Each has only required that I load it into my Wheeler Barrel Vise, crank the vise down tight and than give the barrel wrench a good strong hammer whack (scientific term there) to loosen it up from the receiver for easy removal. I've removed about a dozen Mauser barrels over the last few years.